Saturday, October 2, 2010

Mojave Desert

In planning a trip to the EDUCAUSE Conference in Anaheim (12-14 October), the cheapest airfare allowed me an extra week before the conference so decided to make the most of it and visit some of the Parks of Southwest USA. There's something special about deserts and I'm told you've got to see the Grand Canyon once in your life, and it is an opportunity to add to my count of 25 US states visited, so here are some highlights:

Day 1 began at 3:30 AM for a 6:00 AM flight to LA via Auckland. After a delay of flights in both Melbourne and Auckland, eventually got underway across the Pacific. Always have to report on movies watched in flight - only managed two (well, one and a bit...read on). The first was a little gem from Britain called Cemetery Junction, the second was the new Robin Hood and the first 20 mins were so bad I gave up in disgust. Why is it that every version made after Errol Flynn fell in love with Olivia de Havilland in 1938 (didn't we all?) the producers think it's clever to change the story. Prince of Thieves (1991) was saved by the genius of Alan Rickman and Morgan Freeman but this latest version "starring" Russell Crowe is an abomination (at least the first 20 minutes are...). But I digress. Fortunately, I was given a bulk head seat with a spare seat beside me so did manage some sleep. Arrived at LAX 20+ hours after boarding in Melbourne but it was still only 8:00AM Saturday morning.

This made my 32nd landing at LAX but this is the first time I have left the airport not in a plane. After politely declining the apparently magnanimous offer of a special upgrade to a larger vehicle:
"No thanks, the original will be fine."
"But sir, you'll be much more comfortable in this one and it's only an extra $108.00 (+ taxes). How many passengers do you have with you?"
"Just me and two bags...the original will be fine, thanks."
I made my way to the car park, found the car (a Ford Escape), zeroed the trip meter and managed to find my way to the I-15 through the maze of Los Angeles highways and freeways with only a modicum of assistance from "Karen". It was a bit disconcerting to have the GPS estimate a travel time of 22.5 hours from LA to Las Vegas, so GPS was reset to US defaults, allowing it to pick up local time directly, and now Karen has an American accent (I'm not sure if she also had an accompanying name change - must investigate tomorrow).

Three hours to Baker, California for the turnoff to the Mojave National Preserve. Just as well I had looked up where the road into the Preserve was because there was absolutely no sign of it on the highway - most unlike the US highways where signage is both abundant and useful.

Entrance to Mojave National Preserve, Baker, California

Almost as soon as I got into the desert, the weather changed...

Rain over the Mojave Desert

but it wasn't long before my first Joshua Tree

Joshua Tree, Mojave Desert

and a Desert Tortoise crossing the road. After lying in the middle of the road (not a lot of traffic) to take this shot, I moved it off to the side - hope it kept going in the same direction.

Desert Tortoise, Mojave Desert

These tortoises are generally rare but apparently quite common in the Mojave. They are frequently killed by cars - not just on the road but also in car parks where they shelter in the shade under parked cars so you need to check under your car before driving off.

My first planned stop was the Kelso Dunes, 600 ft high sand dune system in the middle of the Preserve.

Kelso Dunes from Kelbaker Road

Kelso Dunes Trailhead

where there was also some interesting wildlife.

Chipmunk, Kelso Dunes Trailhead, Mojave Desert

On the way back to the main road, a coyote crossed the road just in front of the car - alas, not quick enough with the camera but the skyscape was great.

Mojave Desert from Kelso Dunes Road

Next stop, Hole in the Wall for a short walk and photo op.

Hole in the Wall

Despite the cloud cover, the temperature was over 90F so it was soon on to Mitchell Caverns where the road climbs up into the mountains so it is cooler and provides some spectacular views.

Road to Mitchell Caverns

Barrell Cactus and Yucca among desert flora, Mitchell Caverns Road

Unfortunately, I was too late for the last Caves tour but as I hadn't planned this I was not greatly disappointed. I took a short walk along the trail from the car park to check out the panoramic view

View from Mitchell Caverns Trail

I then headed out of the Preserve for the drive to Las Vegas. Just before leaving the Preserve, I couldn't resist photographing the umpteenth sign saying, somewhat anachronistically:

Essex Road, Mojave National Preserve

Having crossed the Preserve in a giant zig-zag, I left via the Southeast entrance on I-40 and headed for Fenner (at the start of Goffs Rd) to refuel the car and undertake a fluid exchange of my own.

Goffs Rd was part of the original Route 66, and it is commemorated in some interesting ways.

Goffs Road

So, having got my kicks, I continued on to Goffs, now a ghost town but still a rail crossing (Route 66 was originally built mostly as a service road for the Santa Fe - Burlington Railroad and the line is still the busiest in North America with trains passing approximately every 15 minutes) so I was lucky enough for a bit of train spotting

Railway line beside Goffs Road

I really know nothing about trains but I just love the spectacle of the long snake of carriages crawling across the desert landscape being pulled by four or more locos.

Goffs Rd soon joins US-95 and which heads north to Nevada


...my 26th state.

465 miles driven through some beautiful desert scenery on a day that lasted 42hours. Can't wait for tomorrow.

PS. Apologies for the feet, miles and Fahrenheit but when in Rome... ;-)

2 comments:

  1. Ian, I'm jealous. Seems like you saw a heck of a lot on your first day! Nice photos as always. Take care and keep enjoying...

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  2. Thanks Colin
    It's been a hoot - the weather has been all over the place but that's made the photography even more fun :-)

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